One World, One Dream
This sign, the motto of the 2008 Olympics, is at the Great Wall, just outside of Beijing. This photo was taken in late June, on our way out of China. In today’s paper, an athlete competing in Beijing said, “Eerie how the sun never comes out all day.” Eerie indeed.

Affixiated Lara
Lara’s having a hard time breathing at the Wall.

Pretty Great
In this shot, the sign is in the upper right corner. It’s sad.


We recently arrived in Beijing, a city busily getting ready to hold the Olympics in less than two months. To walk the streets of Beijing, or even look out the window, one has to ask how Olympic athletes will possibly compete here. It’s not possible to convey how polluted Beijing is in words. If Chengdu’s atmosphere resembled skim milk, Beijing is more akin to mushroom soup. One can see about a block or two, then the city recedes in the mysterious mists of smog. It’s like the early morning fog of California, but it never burns off.

Beijing Smog
Beijing, mid-day.

Beijing Streets
Modern Beijing.

It’s a wonder the government was able to convince the Olympic committee to hold the Olympics here. What would really infuriate me if I were a Beijinger, is the fact that for the Olympics, the government will stop the polluting industry, and restrict automobile traffic, so the air will be relatively clean. Then, once the Olympics are over, it’s back to pollution-as-usual. Lara and I discussed living in Beijing as embodying the frog-in-hot-water analogy. If the water, or air pollution, increases slowly enough, the frogs, or people, don’t notice. Until it’s too late.

Beijing Food Market
Beijing food market.

Food Market workers
Food market workers.

Bored Food Worker
Bored food worker.

Beijing is more hip than Chengdu. It is less socially conservative. People stare less here, or even notice our presence. The pollution is the first thing one notices, and it’s hard to get past.

We went to the Great Wall, or the Long Wall, as it’s known in Chinese. It’s pretty great. But again, the wall is overshadowed by the haze of pollution. One can barely see the wall itself.

Great Wall

Great Wall II

Great Wall III

Smog Wall


Wall Climb II

The most notable thing about our visit to the Great Wall was what happened after we climbed it. We sat down next to a group of people that looked like they were from Afghanistan, and had some coffee. We sat talking, while a women from Canada approached this group and they all started talking. Before you know it they were discussing Barack Obama and Bush. We soon figured out they were from Pakistan. They turned to us and said, We are against the policies, not the people. It was a big delegation, and a couple of them came and sat next to us, and began talking politics, explaining that Pakistan didn’t have problems with the Taliban until Bush and Mush (Musharraf) began with “their war policies.” He said they favored dialogue over war. He then introduced one of the members of the delegation as Musharraf’s brother, a “legitimate leader because he was elected.” Obviously Musharraf and his brother have some differences.

Yesterday we saw Mao’s body, under a red hammer and sickle flag, on display next to Tiananmen Square. Today we visited the Summer Palace. Tomorrow morning we leave for Portland. Our time in China has come to an end. Check back soon for final photos and some final thoughts on our ten months in Asia.

We spent a weekend in Chongqing several weeks ago, and on the way home our Chinese traveling companions wanted to stop off to see what they described as an 800 year old Buddhist statue. Don’t get me wrong, I like a good Buddha statue as much as the next guy. But we’ve seen a lot of them in our ten months in Asia, and I was not feeling particularly enthusiastic about driving three hours out of our way to see another one. Boy, was I wrong. I was expecting yet another larger than life representation of Shakyamuni. Instead we got Dazu, the pinnacle of Chinese rock carving art, representing a blending of Tantric Buddhist, Daoist, and Confucian influences as expressed in hundreds of images.

These carvings date from the 9th to the 13th century. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The photos do not really do justice to the enormity of this project. To see it in 360 degree imaging, go here.


To get a sense of the scale of this, on the bottom left is the sidewalk.

Two Dudes

Scary Dudes

Three Wise Men

Sword Man

Hell Realm

Bird Man

Wheel of Life

Quan Yin

While visiting Lara and I here in Chengdu, China our friend Jon made the mistake of taking us up on an offer to see a genuine Sichuan Opera. More akin to vaudeville theater or a circus than an Opera per se, we were all having an enjoyable time. Midway through the performance a gentleman came out in the audience in search of a “volunteer.” Jon immediately went into to a ‘pick-anyone-but-me’ body language routine, which drew the man like a shark to blood. With a look of panic, Jon went up on stage.

Below are some photos of the opera, the section in which performers instantly change their faces, going through a whole series of masks throughout the performance. This is followed by a video of the knife throwing routine which Jon “volunteered” for. In watching the video, I don’t know what’s funnier, Jon up on stage, or Lara, his friend Mark, and I all laughing hysterically.







We recently visited the Leshan Buddha statue, the largest Buddha in the world. It was built 1,300 years ago, begun in the year 713 and completed in 803. It’s 233 feet high. It’s surrounded by Buddhist and Daoist shrines, temples, and cave drawings.

An image in a nearby cave. Notice the tri-grams on the monks robe.



Tiger Characters

Disintegrating Buddha

Big Buddha Profile II

Little People

Jon BB




Jon Slips
This past week our good friend Jon visited us from New York City. We had a blast while he was here, showing him and his friend Mark all around Chengdu. We went to the Sichuan Opera. We also took two trips out of town. The first, to see the pandas, is recorded below. The second, to see the Big Buddha at La Shan, will be documented soon. In the meantime, this photo of Jon observing a sign on the way up the hill to see the Buddha, is indicative of several we encountered along the way. More, even funnier signs, have been posted on the Signs page, listed in the column to the right. Enjoy!

An interesting aspect of Chengdu are the various Buddhist and Taoist sites. One is a monastery, apparently functioning, dedicated to Manjusri, the embodiment of Wisdom, known in China as Wenshu.

Founded during the Sui Dynasty and built between 605 and 617, and initially known as Xin Xiang Temple, it was destroyed by war during the latter stages of the Ming Dynasty (1338 – 1644). It was rebuilt after this, and survived the Cultural Revolution largely intact as well.

It seems most things Chinese which predate the Revolution are now preserved in a kind of theme park setting. Surrounding the temple are small shops selling incense, beads, candles and the like. Nearby is a modern, “ancient” Chinese village, with shops selling expensive artwork, crafts, traditional food, etc. While this area has a kind of Epcot Center feel to it, the Temple itself is weighted with history.

Wenshu Main Building

WenShu roof

Wenshu Temple statue

Wenshu hall

Another classy Wenshu roof

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